Continued....

Next the lower stop gets installed. This is an easy adjustment, tighten in place to where the top of the window is level with the exterior brightwork trim.

Install outboard upper stop.

Install inboard upper stop.

This is the inboard upper stop other half and support bracket. The bracket snakes up in the door shell.

Install the door lock bell crank and connect the door latch rod floating in the top of the door.

So far so good.

Interior retainer bracket goes on last.

If visible you can use the existing scratch marks to tighten what you can down.

Then test the alignment. This is the starting point.

So as you can see the gap at the top is too close to the drivers door glass.

You should try to adjust the upper stops, but if that doesn't work, then, try to adjust the short guide plate that one roller slides in.

Since none of those worked in this case, I had to loosen the big train track guide plate and tilt it slightly and re-tighten.

That was the ticket.

All I did last was ensure the angle of the glass top (in and out) by adjusting the lower brackets and tightening.

The glass is aligned, and it works so effortlessly to roll up and down the window. Plus the one way clutch holds and the window cannot be coerced to move by the glass/frame alone. Not to mention you do not have to be Hercules to lock and unlock the door.

Aside from it looking like crap it feels like a brand new door.

Hope this may help someone with a 3rd gen out.

Cheers.

Note: The upper stops and small roller guide that bolts to the door should only be used to fine tune the window for small errors in alignment. When there isn't sufficient adjustment left in these or the window starts binding, the main window track (the large panel that looks like part of a train layout) is the course adjustment and should be moved about. It can control (to a degree) fore-aft position of glass as well as skew or fore-aft tilt.

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