It still amazes me that whole line snaked into place.

This is the drivers side front.

So far so good.

This is checking the push rod spacing. Now the service manual calls for a gauge you put on the booster. But that's assuming the master is made exactly to print, which I wouldn't put much faith in that. So I loosely ball up some food aluminum foil and put a wad in there and press the master onto the booster.

Carefully extract the foil.

Then measure the crush. This is fine. You do not want the push rod resting on the master cylinder piston.

Master to combo valve lines.

I took some artistic license in making these.

The Ford master has the disc brake reservoir in the rear and the GM valve needs that line in the front. So the lines have to cross. I tried to make this look as appealing as I could.

I think it looks better than Fords original spaghetti monster.

I have to lop off the Ford warning lamp plug and use the GM plug.

I want to be sure the wiring is intact between here and the bulb so I shorted the connector to ground and I should have a brake warning lamp.

and there it is. Cool beans this works for the first time in probably a long long long long..... long time.

They do sell a little tool that screws in place of the switch on the combo valve that's supposed to help keep the shuttle valve centre'd whilst bleeding.

Like so, but I've had mixed results using it. It may be more of a gimmick.

The fronts passed their drug test

Wow clean fluid... and not the murky swamp fluid that came out of it originally.

The backs passed too.

For the astute that noticed the steering gear was out, well here it is installed and the P.S. hoses clear the new combo valve and all my custom made lines.

The brakes work really well now. The rear brakes are definitely working and on gravel I can lock all 4 up. I do feel the brakes are a bit over-boosted, but they are many many times better than when we bought the old girl.

I hope you enjoyed and maybe this helps someone one out.

Cheers.

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