It is interesting about the dash-I/P design for '67. I can see the steering wheel being different for the padded wheel with the intent of an airbag in the near future, but it really doesn't explain the vast deviation on the rest of the I/P design.

The '67 dash is almost GM looking, was this some designers "big idea", but was later rejected and returned to the basic design of the '65. (semi-rhetorical).

The '66 was just a minor face lifted '65, in fact many of the interior parts are the same. And I do realize the '66 interior is loaded with sharp bright work trim, a metal package shelf and well basically there's just one word that describes even a minor incident whilst riding in those cars = Concussion.

The ol noggin will get a pounding no matter where you sit; either front or back. In the back seat right behind the head is a steel package shelf. To sides, cast aluminum speaker grilles with lamps on the sail panel and bright trim all round.

The front seats, well again bright work all round, then a non-collapsible steering column to greet your rib cage.

The '68, well there's no real bright work anymore and the pillars are padded and so is most of the interior. Looks more cheesy. In theory it's safer, but cheesy looking.

Ok, I'm done critiquing.

Since the previous owner(s) played lets find the stump in the field repeatedly and mangled some of the suspension parts I had to dig into my stores of spares. My plan is to just revamp the spares a head of time and then the car will not need to sit in the lift waiting for its parts to be done.

A couple caveats with this plan are the spares are from a '66 with a Windsor and drum brakes all round, so I cannot use its front springs or spindles. The rear upper control arm for the 9 inch is also different (takes different bushings) so I'll have to use the '68 LTD's front springs, spindles and rear upper control arm. Just about everything else will interchange.

Of course it needs to be taken apart, de-oxidized and grease removed.

Electrolysis bath to the rescue, fresh R.O. water, a whole big box of baking soda, some anodes and a beat up ol battery charger. Works a treat. About 40 minutes per part. You can see the heavier rust just fall right off the part in the bottom of the bath.

Once out of the bath, it's only a minute or two in the sand blaster cabinet and it's ready for paint. These are too big for the oven so they will get POR 15 semi-gloss. The other parts will fit in the oven so they'll get powder coated.

But first the bushings need to be removed. Everything here pretty much looks like they are the original parts from '66. Everything is being replaced; bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

Pressing out old bushings.

A little piece of cut galvanized water pipe to insert as not to distort the control arm under intense pressure.

There's seven ways to Sunday to get these out. This works ok. This time the guts just pushed out, now going after the housing.

Another piece of pipe just slightly smaller OD than the bushing housing/can so it doesn't hurt the control arm.

Then sometimes the whole thing just presses out.

As far as the steering components go, the only piece worth keeping is the centre link. The centre link is considered a non-wear part and is hard to find. Everything else can be bought new and will go in the rubbish bin.

This was a fail, neither of the tie rods wanted to part company with the centre link. I ended up putting the whole thing in the press and had to use an unholy amount of pressure to get them out. Sounded like a gun shot on both when they finally let loose.

Slowly getting there...

I wanted to touch on buying and titling an old car. Now every state has its own laws regarding titling and from what I read, some states only require a bill of sale on cars X years old.

Those in New Mexico are now in for a shock when purchasing a car without a title and subsequently applying for one.

But first, buying:

I had taken a screen shot of the Craigslist ad for this fine apparatus when we bought it. Here's a key point to always remember and you can't go wrong when looking at to buy an old car; Never trust anything the seller says or types.

It's rare to find an educated and honest seller of an automobile. 9 times out of 10 they are truly ignorant about the car, or just plain out to screw you or both.

The only things they got right in the ad were that it's a 390, needs tyres, and radiator. Here are the blatant lies:

* "Fast back". No it isn't. It's a formal roof.

* "posi-rear end". No it never came with one, and if someone put one in later on, it's so cooked it's an open differential now.

* "Needs ignition switch". No it's fine, the problem lies in the wiring harness. A switch is easy to replace. Replacing or repairing a harness is much more involved.

* "Needs gas tank to be cleaned". Seriously?!... It's beat up, it's beyond cleaning, just needs to be replaced.

* "Great Model". Granted this is highly subjective, but on the scale of being collectable this is at the bottom being a 4 door. So not really....

* "Good Condition". Ummmmm no. I've seen more complete and nicer old cars at the local U Pull and Pay. Even Ray Charles would laugh hysterically at this one.

It also turns out $720 is not the lowest they will go. Especially after pointing some of the obvious falsehoods out in the ad.

Point is always be on your guard and know what you're buying first hand before you go. Do the research on the car before setting out.

Now for titling in New Mexico without a previous title or a relatively newer title. Yes, even if you have a title but it's one of those old small titles about the size of a note card, New Mexico requires you to go through the process as if you had no title at all. You'll need a bill of sale for sure, but you can set forth to do all the paperwork and mailings on your own (intensive) or go through one of the many titling companies and apply for a surety bond title.

We chose to go through a titling company because even though it's a little more, it's not worth the hassle of doing it all yourself. The car needed to be loaded up and taken in for a VIN verification at the titling place. If you were doing this on your own you'd have to make an appointment at the Sheriff's department to have them do a VIN verification and run the car to check if it was stolen if you were out to do this by yourself as a first step.

Up till about a year ago, the process was simple and guaranteed. Once the VIN verification was complete and the car is not hot, then a listed search of all previous owners on states records was conducted. Then all those owners are sent certified letters saying someone is claiming the automobile and if they wish to contest this they can.

Once the letters are returned back or returned by the post office as old addresses and no one contests, the application is approved and a new title is issued in your name for the car. If the car was purchased in state, it took a couple of weeks and you're set. If out of state, it could take a month or two.

But everything made sense as to claiming ownership and this was reasonable and fair. Now you still have to do all the above, but now the state of New Mexico can deny ownership and without cause. Of which you can appeal, but all this costs $$$. It really has gotten ludicrous. Then if the state approves you have to pay tax on TWICE the NADA guide price.

So this pile of magnificence was valued at $1800 on the lowest possible scale of NADA and so we had to pay tax as if the car was worth $3600 dollars. Not less forgetting the whole process now takes at least 3 months.

It's insane.....

So the total cost of getting a title for this car was the same price as the car itself. Just something to keep in mind when shopping for a car without a title. You have to figure that price (whatever your state may require to get a title if necessary) into the selling price or rather subtract that from the selling price.

Just thought I'd share this experience, especially for those thinking about getting "a project car".