Here are the pictures of the original tank and sender... Another reason why you cannot trust anything old and hope for the best when you buy from someone.

Remember just needs a cleaning according to the ad.... yup... It's amazing it didn't rip or split the straps or the strap mounts getting whacked this hard.

If that wasn't bad enough there was a layer of something covering the bottom inside that I could not identify, nor wanted too.

Don't ask me where the float and pick up sock went. I think it dissolved and sadly this wouldn't be the first case of that. The '66 LTD tank and sender had to be pitched as well. That tank was full of something, no longer fuel after sitting 30 odd years. It did dissolve most of the pick up assembly there was just a stump after the plate on the inside. Looked like something from a cartoon. It was so ridiculous it was funny.

The swing arm was completely frozen and the pick up tube itself was completely packed with something. Didn't matter in the bin it went along with the tank.

Now I don't mind fixing years of neglect, but fixing previous owners bad repairs or modifications gets on my nerves... Here's an example. The fuel inlet pipe rubber seal around the outer wheel house was falling apart and no doubt water was getting splashed into the boot. Rather than find a flat piece of rubber, even an old mud flap, and cut out a circle and replace the ripped one they slathered bathroom/kitchen caulk all around it. All this did was trap moisture and rot out the entire area.

So now I have to match a patch panel, cut this out, butt-stitch the new piece in, then make a new steel collar for the rubber boot, then make a new rubber boot in order to keep water and other road debris out of the boot properly.

This is added to the list of things to do.

I did this a while back but I would like to show the problems that arose and things to look for in revamping just the booster and master.

I was mistaken earlier it did have a master cylinder on it when I bought it, it was just frozen. Can't imagine why .

The booster itself wasn't connected either and was an non-op as non-op gets. Now I need to point out there are two different brake boosters offered for the 1968 Disc brake option. They are either a Midland Ross or a Bendix. They are not interchangeable as the bracket assemblies are different; geometry of linkages and bolt hole locations. The determining factor is when the car was built in '68. This is the Bendix booster. Can't say I'm a fan of this design for reasons (and pictures) coming up.

But first enter the last straw for A-1 products. I mean this really put the tin hat on it.

This was "a good price" at Rock Auto. It was a combo unit requiring no core return. First the master was some generic thing with more ports and plugs than necessary and also had a casting finish that would give a cheese grater a run for its money. If you brushed up against it literally took your epidermis right off. Then there's the booster. It clearly wasn't the correct application for the car (lacking a tilt stamped into the rear half) so they put extended studs onto the back and a pie wedge aluminum plate spacer that adds the tilt. Mind you the studs are now at an angle because they are perpendicular to the back...

This is typical of A1/Cardone stuff I have encountered in the past. However as long as the guts were rebuilt on it this whole thing is still cheaper than a rebuild kit just for the booster by far, I think you know where I'm headed here.

First things first, still need the rear lever/bracket assembly off the old one and need to revamp it, it's so stiff and rusty.

The fulcrum on the pivot was just full of rust dust. Deoxidized all of this and powder coated the bits and used my favourite synthetic grease as there is no grease fitting on this so once it's together the only way to further service is take it all off the car and apart.

Next up since you've guessed it I used the original shell off the '68. So it came apart and deoxidized them, blasted, and powder coated to prep for the hopefully newer guts on the A-1 travesty. Also a new Dorman master was ordered.

So here's the finished products after cleaning, powder coating (even did the new master) and switching booster guts.

Now I fully admit I can be unnecessarily picky at times but this A-1 is crap. Not to mention aluminum against a steel body, add a little moisture to that and oh boy let the festering corrosion commence.

Now have a look at the back of that A-1 booster around the studs.. Something is not kosher. Looks like they coated over JB weld.

Check out the rust pits on the master cover, they couldn't even be bothered to put a new cap on it. This is some rotted old POS blasted and coated.

This is by no means concours but it's loads better than it was.

Tested, holds vacuum and has assist.

Need the correct size grommet to accommodate the new check valve.

For those wondering what the Midland Ross booster looks like for the '68 (other option).

It's been my experience and pleasure to rebuild a Midland Ross booster. They are easy to take apart and rebuild. Now here the Midland is shallow and wider because it's a single diaphragm booster whilst the Bendix is smaller but much deeper because it's a dual diaphragm.

In the background the other goldish booster is the Midland Ross booster I rebuilt off the '66 LTD. Now that booster is smaller because the car is 4 wheel drum assisted versus disc. It does not have to generate 1000 psi for the disc brakes as on the '68 just a few hundred psi for drum.

This is the new Dorman master and I'm showing this shot to show this master is missing a crucial bit. So even though the master has a better finish and less ports and plugs it is missing the RPV that the OEM master has.

Welcome to the world of aftermarket and the near constant battle to get it right. I'll have to install an external RPV in order to keep the rear wheel cylinders happy. This goes to show you cannot accept anything on face value and have to check every detail of every part. Even the hideous master on the A-1 thing was missing it as well.

Next, I'll show how to take apart a Bendix booster.