Continued .....

The resonators are a bit bulky, but I really wanted a very quiet exhaust on both of these cars, of which I failed as they are still loud, but every little bit helps.

In order to get the pipe height correct with respect to the bumper, a bumper was temporarily mounted for reference. Now I'm bringing out the tail pipes past the bumper. Originally Ford terminated the tail pipes behind the bumper.

Like so. This is the stock pipes on a '68 same was true on the '66's and probably on all 3rd gens I would wager.

There's enough wiggle room to allow for pot holes and the exhaust weight shifting the pipes without whacking the frame or bumper.

Welded up. Now I didn't use these pipe tips as one was bent and not polished (cheap O'Reilly's parts) so I bought stainless (304 aka 18-8) tips for it.

So I thought I was done with the exhaust at this point. Nope, we'll come back to it in a bit. But for now it's fuel line time. So I'm using 3/8" stainless (again 304) for the supply and return lines.

Now Ford originally ran 5/16" poly line along the inner rocker tunnel clipped on. Poly line scares me, well especially this old crap; you can bend it and it just snaps in two. With todays alcohol content and it's ability to absorb moisture regular steel lines or even ni-copp lines didn't bode well with me. Stainless is expensive and an absolute cow to work with, but in the end very worth it. I am running it atop the frame rail since there's no reason to change this ever again. I'm using stainless hardware and clamps to secure it, plus it's out of the way of the body and makes the final body installation much easier.

The new 390 (old one built up) will be very thirsty when the fun pedal is fully depressed so in order to prevent fuel pressure loss 3/8" line was chosen. The return line was used because a return style fuel rail regulator will be used to maintain the injector pressure.

The slow process of forming the stainless lines.

Now there is an offset needed atop the frame rail in order to install the seat belt rocker bolt without hitting the lines. So the body is lifted perfectly above the chassis where it normally resides and a plumb is used to locate where the bolt would land.

Now I can offset the lines here and avoid future problems.

There's the offset.

This is also very time consuming. The amount of hours is simply staggering to do a good job.

I made a bracket to hold the fuel lines where they will connect to the tank. I am using 6-AN stainless hardware.

Now I did have to remake one line as I screwed up the flare. Mistakes happen, they are maddening, but they happen.

I had to make a couple pieces here out of stainless for the front of the lines on the firewall.

If you're not "in the zone" and no not AutoZone, haha, when hand fabricating, you just have to quit and come back to it otherwise it makes a for a long painful night.

This is how I am mounting the lines to the front of the car, err firewall. They are out of the way of the wheel apron and will clear the eventual slew of Deutsch bulkhead connectors on the firewall.

They are presentable. These will also be flared for 6-AN.

Next up engine parts....