The Evaporator / Blower Motor Plenum Part 5

The blower can go in next.

Now for the blower motor cooling tube, err hose. I know they make a reproduction of it, but I like the heavy duty option of using a moulded heater hose. If you're interested, it's 9 bucks on Rock Auto. It's a Dayco brand. You'll only use a small portion of it.

Like a glove.

The inspection cover needs these bits and bobs added.

Now originally the evaporator inspection cover was sealed with that bedding compound. Ug, no. I elected to use cork as a primary sealer.

So with that ready, it's time to prep the evaporator core.

First thing is to clean the copper tubes out of the evaporator. Then since Ford used a steel flare nut I have to clean the rusty threads inside. I tried a wire brush on the dremel but the corrosion is too intense.

I had a tap to clean most of the threads but couldn't get that last couple, so I found a bolt with the same threads and used that to scrape out the last threads.

I plugged the connections temporarily as this has a date with the hose to clean all the crap off it.

Not too bad.

Now that the outside is clean it's time to clean the inside. There's 56 years of old mineral oil in there that needs to come out. Here's a crude but effective flushing scheme. I used lacquer thinner and would fill, slosh, soak and then blow it out with compressed air. Rinse and repeat till the discharge is clear, then dry with compressed air.

It's ready to go home.

The inspection cover back on. The cork did a good job, but there was some spots where the plastic was bowed. With that I smeared a light amount of Ultra Black RTV atop the silicon. Just enough to seal without making it a pain in the arse to remove in the future if you need to clean the evaporator.

The mode door servo is next to go on.

I checked the servo and it's still good and I couldn't see any cracks in the rubber diaphragm. I am amazed about that.

Next the cooling thermostat can go on. The old one had the side broken, so I opted for an NOS one.

To test this I lightly sprayed some brake clean on the last 6" of the probe and watched it click open and then let it warm back up and heard it click closed again. The adjustment arm altered the set point, so it's working.

continued in next post.